With no poly vapor barrier, is this installation correct? – They cannot seal out water that might flow through hairline cracks. At least it’s a thicker panel. How will you use it? The more the better. Your question might be answered by sellers, manufacturers, or customers who bought this product. Again I am in Wisconsin. You want the insulation to be as close to the outside as possible. If you use foam board you need to use a least 2 inches of XPS foam or Polyiso. I’ll be looking for some 24″ ‘cavity designs’ in the meantime. Just found out large parts of the exterior have to be replaced. Thanks for sharing the knowledge, appreciate it. Should I include a vapor barrier on the underside of the interior foam before I insulate? I figure I could seal up the interior well enough to stop any air flow to the exterior using caulk and tape. At least now I have a plan of attack which can be modified along the way. I am looking for ideas to insulate a cathedral ceiling. Can I go with thicker foam on the roof if I want to without running into major issues with the drip edge ventilation intake and/or fascia board and gutters? I think I’d go with screws on the back of the door, but not sure about the stairway walls… And I have no fuel sources in the attic. However could you lay 1 1/2″ rigid foam board without sleepers but rather two layers of plywood? We’ve tried dozens of them and my preference is Certainteed. You will not need to insulate the cavity either. I drilled 2 1/8″ holes in the soffits and installed a ridge vent on the peak of my roof. If I can use a form board which one would you consider. I need to install attic baffles (which is a pain, I’m working on trying to pre-glue and pushing them into position at the soffit ends) but that will take time. Then you can install the 2″ of foam board which will bring the foam to the outside edge of the concrete wall. @-webkit-keyframes wiggle{from{-webkit-transform:translate3d(0rem,0,0);transform:translate3d(0rem,0,0)}to{-webkit-transform:translate3d(1.7rem,0,0);transform:translate3d(1.7rem,0,0)}50%{-webkit-transform:translate3d(3.4rem,0,0);transform:translate3d(3.4rem,0,0)}70%{-webkit-transform:translate3d(.85rem,0,0);transform:translate3d(.85rem,0,0)}90%{-webkit-transform:translate3d(2.55rem,0,0);transform:translate3d(2.55rem,0,0)}}@keyframes wiggle{from{-webkit-transform:translate3d(0rem,0,0);transform:translate3d(0rem,0,0)}to{-webkit-transform:translate3d(1.7rem,0,0);transform:translate3d(1.7rem,0,0)}50%{-webkit-transform:translate3d(3.4rem,0,0);transform:translate3d(3.4rem,0,0)}70%{-webkit-transform:translate3d(.85rem,0,0);transform:translate3d(.85rem,0,0)}90%{-webkit-transform:translate3d(2.55rem,0,0);transform:translate3d(2.55rem,0,0)}}.turbo-checkout-swipe-area{position:relative}.turbo-checkout-swipe-area-text{margin-left:5.7rem;background:#f7e1a9}.turbo-checkout-swipe-padding{padding:1.9rem 0!important}.turbo-checkout-swipe-handle{position:absolute;left:0;width:5.7rem;height:100%;background:url(data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iNDgiIGhlaWdodD0iNDgiIHZpZXdCb3g9IjAgMCA0OCA0OCIgeG1sbnM9Imh0dHA6Ly93d3cudzMub3JnLzIwMDAvc3ZnIj48ZyBmaWxsPSJub25lIiBmaWxsLXJ1bGU9ImV2ZW5vZGQiPjxwYXRoIGZpbGwtb3BhY2l0eT0iLjAxIiBmaWxsPSIjRkZGIiBkPSJNMCAwaDQ4djQ4SDB6Ii8+PHBhdGggZD0iTS4xMzYgMzYuOTMzbDEyLjc3LTEyLjYyMmMuMTgtLjE3Ny4xOC0uNDQzIDAtLjYyTC4xMzYgMTEuMDY2Yy0uMTgtLjE3OC0uMTgtLjQ0NSAwLS42MjNsMi4zNTUtMi4zMWMuMTgyLS4xNzguNDUzLS4xNzguNjM1IDBsMTUuNzU4IDE1LjU1NWMuMTguMTc3LjE4LjQ0MyAwIC42MkwzLjEyNSAzOS44NjhjLS4xODIuMTc3LS40NTMuMTc3LS42MzQgMGwtMi4zNTQtMi4zMWMtLjE4LS4xOC0uMTgtLjQ0NiAwLS42MjR6bTE0LjQ5IDBsMTIuNzctMTIuNjIyYy4xOC0uMTc3LjE4LS40NDMgMC0uNjJsLTEyLjc3LTEyLjYyM2MtLjE4LS4xNzgtLjE4LS40NDUgMC0uNjIzbDIuMzU1LTIuMzFjLjE4Mi0uMTc4LjQ1NC0uMTc4LjYzNSAwbDE1Ljc2IDE1LjU1NWMuMTguMTc3LjE4LjQ0MyAwIC42MmwtMTUuNzYgMTUuNTU3Yy0uMTguMTc3LS40NTMuMTc3LS42MzQgMGwtMi4zNTQtMi4zMWMtLjE4LS4xOC0uMTgtLjQ0NiAwLS42MjR6bTE0LjQ5IDBsMTIuNzctMTIuNjIyYy4xODItLjE3Ny4xODItLjQ0MyAwLS42MmwtMTIuNzctMTIuNjIzYy0uMTgtLjE3OC0uMTgtLjQ0NSAwLS42MjNsMi4zNTYtMi4zMWMuMTgtLjE3OC40NTMtLjE3OC42MzQgMGwxNS43NTggMTUuNTU1Yy4xOC4xNzcuMTguNDQzIDAgLjYyTDMyLjEwNiAzOS44NjhjLS4xOC4xNzctLjQ1My4xNzctLjYzNCAwbC0yLjM1NS0yLjMxYy0uMTgtLjE4LS4xOC0uNDQ2IDAtLjYyNHoiIGZpbGw9IiMxMTEiLz48L2c+PC9zdmc+Cg==) center/35% no-repeat #f2c13c}.turbo-checkout-swipe-animate{-webkit-transition:all 150ms ease-out;transition:all 150ms ease-out}.turbo-checkout-status-contents{width:100vw}.turbo-checkout-status{width:100%;position:absolute;background:#ebf9ea}.turbo-checkout-status.turbo-checkout-in-progress{height:100%;max-width:5.7rem;overflow:hidden}.turbo-checkout-status.turbo-checkout-completed{display:none}.turbo-checkout-wiggle{-webkit-animation:wiggle .5s .4s 1 backwards;animation:wiggle .5s .4s 1 backwards}.turbo-checkout-status{color:#008500;box-shadow:0 0 0 1px #89cb84 inset}.turbo-checkout-status-contents{font-style:italic!important} I used a small Square to line up the blade properly. As I wrote above this time last year we had big problems with dampness in our concrete construction condo during the winter months starting around early October when it got colder. You don’t have to insulate the floor in order to make a big difference. Also over this insulation I want to put fiberglass? Not sure I understand your question. Can I use foam board without covering with drywall, since its not in livable space, and behind the door? I know t…. I love in Montreal, Canada and I had water infiltration in the basement cause by a foundation crack which has been repaired. Your best best is the high density DOW products. Is there something I’m missing? The latter seems like it may be overkill since we don’t need to hang anything on the walls. As far as adhering the insulation, do you just use construction adhesive to install the foam boards, and if so, how do you hold them tight to the foundation wall? Check this article out: http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/vapor-barriers-for-basement-insulation/. On the inner side I intend to use one inch of rigid foamboard then 2″X 4″ 16 in OC framed wall. Keep it clean. There is no basement, just 2 floors above grade. However air still will work its way through the fiberglass and to the bedroom wall. How? Todd- I have a bedroom wall that is exposed to the attic area above my garage. Copper water lines touching the inside of the block on one bathroom wall will freeze when temps get in the mid to low teens for an extended time. There isn’t sufficient space to properly vent the area. 5. But my big question is the walls. That is definitely something i can accomplish and makes me more comfortable doing. I’ve heard R-5 blue board on exterior of stick frame walls with vapor barrier and R-11 fiberglass on the inside. 2″ might meet your local code but you should check. We are working on one of the rooms on the top floor (3d floor)we gutted everything and what is left right now is three brick walls. The problem i ran into is that the rafters are just 2×6 inch with actual dimensions of 2×5.5 inch. For Example: Foundation Drain, Framing, Cracking, etc. I’m also not sure about what to do to deal w/ the steel supports. The insulation is not consistent and looks dirty in places that I can see (where the original wood is broken). Alison – Can you be more specific about your questions? I think you’re certainly onto the approach I’d take. Anything less will result in moisture problems. Jeremy – No worries….this site is all about helping folks out. I tried pushing the insulation down into the corner but can’t reach that far down with my 3/12 or 4/12 roof very well. I don’t know about the insulation in existing walls, but I can probably find out. It’s reasonably priced, light weight and easy to use. 1. You may want to consider insulating it with just foam board to really eliminate the problem all together. Jim – Check out my article on insulating basement walls which shows how I think it should be done. We live on the main floor of a duplex and have high heating bills in part due to old (inadequate) insulation. AmazonUIPageJS : P).load.js('https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91Z9pfhVpfL.js?AUIClients/GestaltDetailPageMobileWebMetaAsset'); However see the article listed by DuPont: http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Weatherization/en_US/assets/downloads/pdfs/K25107_Weather_Barrier_a_Must_with_Exterior_Foam_Sheathing_Tech_Bulletin.pdf. Seems like going over the foam and using that as the extension would be safer and caulk the underlying furring strips well to keep them from allowing the moisture under the foam from penetrating. Gambrel roof. 5. Great site, I wish I found it sooner as I am midway through my project. If so how? Online shopping from a great selection at Movies & TV Store. When properly covered from the sun and environment it should last indefinitely. I am a contractor preparing to renovate a 1965 house with homasote sheathing. I was thinking of getting some 1/2 ” blue board & nailing it directly to the drywall on the interior. AmazonUIPageJS : P).load.js('https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/017ShY1bOEL.js?AUIClients/GiftingDetailPageBuzzAssets'); The attic is a conditioned space, it’s a 1.5 story home with the room-in-attic addition and I will be building gabled dormers in the middle of the roof line on each side of the house that will take up about 1/3 of the total roof area. You’ll probably find that the rooms above the finished/insulated area will feel more comfortable afterwards. Kim – Your proposed method will work just fine, and yes you should use a house wrap. 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